Remove the old teak
Removing teak wood from a ship’s deck is a laborious and demanding task that requires carefulness and patience to achieve satisfactory results. When we set out to remove the old teak wood, we were relieved to find that it was only glued and not additionally screwed in place. This significantly facilitated the removal process.
To remove the old teak, we utilized a multitool with a specialized spatula attachment, as well as hand chisels.
While removing, we came across uncovered screw holes in the fiberglass (GFK) that resulted from a previous teak wood installation. To properly address these screw holes, we took the time to meticulously work on each individual hole. First, we lightly drilled into each screw hole to prepare it. Then, we used epoxy resin to fill the holes, thoroughly seal them, and achieve a smooth, even surface.
During the removal of the teak wood, in addition to the uncovered screw holes, the remnants of the old gelcoat surface became visible. The adhesive used for the previous teak deck was found in the gaps. We had to carefully remove this adhesive before we could start building the new deck.
To remove the larger adhesive residues, we used chisels to gently scrape them off the gelcoat. Then, we used a grinding machine equipped with coarse sandpaper to thoroughly eliminate the remaining remnants. Through this two-step process, we were able to create a smooth and clean surface that was ready for further work steps.
Painting the Deck
After the final sanding pass, the surface of our deck was optimally prepared to receive a fresh coating. Selecting the appropriate products for renewing the deck wasn’t an easy decision. There are countless suppliers and various opinions on this matter. However, in the end, we opted for International products as they have an excellent reputation and were also easy for us to obtain without lengthy delivery times to Spain.
The restoration of our deck occurred in three consecutive stages: We began with applying a two-component epoxy primer (INTERPROTECT) in a total of three layers. Subsequently, two layers of a two-component primer paint (PERFECTION UNDERCOAT) were applied. The finishing touch comprised two layers of a one-component high-gloss boat enamel (TOPLAC PLUS).
Before the painting process, it was essential to carefully seal all planned openings, such as those for the Genoa track, to prevent the intrusion of paint. For this purpose, we used plastic wrap to plug the holes and seal them. Subsequently, we secured the edges with masking tape and proceeded with the layered application.
The aforementioned products had distinct timeframes for processing and reworking, which needed to be strictly adhered to. Between the individual layers of epoxy primer, for instance, we had to observe a timeframe of at least 8 hours and no more than 6 months before applying the next coat. Exceeding this time window would have necessitated re-sanding the entire surface. These times varied depending on the ambient temperature. As we prepared for the transition from primer to paint, the weather unfortunately played a trick on us. This resulted in us surpassing the prescribed maximum overcoating time, which was within the range of 8-24 hours for these two products. Consequently, we were compelled to sand the entire deck once again.
In total, it took us 4 days to completely paint our deck, and it brought us joy when we were able to remove the last piece of tape, marking a significant milestone in our project of rejuvenating our deck.
